Devilled kidneys

Traditionally a breakfast disk, I prefer this as a supper.

The kidneys are lamb’s ones and you quarter them and core them, before coating them in flour seasoned with salt, pepper, mustard powder and some chilli powder.

Then, all you do is sauté them in butter until they lose most of the inner pinkness but not all of it, splash in some amontillado sherry, cook this down and add some cream, stir for about a minute and serve on buttered toast, garnished with parsley.

If you are drinking wine with this, something red and light is best, maybe a Beaujolais, a lighter Burgundy, a Gamay from the Loire or a St Pourçain, all of which could stand a bit of chilling.

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