Another roast chicken – poulet farci Duxelles

The idea for this comes from Richard Olney originally, I think. The chicken is stuffed between the skin and the breast with a Duxelles mixture and then roasted in olive oil.

The Duxelles mixture was made with some finely chopped onion and mushrooms sweated in butter and with chopped parsley, salt and pepper added.

When it was cooled, I carefully separated the skin from the breast of the chicken and added the mixture. The chicken was roasted breast down for the first half hour and then turned on its back for the rest of the cooking time.

To go with the chicken, I made a gratin dauphinois, which does not have cheese in it despite what many recipes say. It is just waxy potatoes cut into rounds and then baked with milk and cream in an ovenproof dish that has been rubbed with cloves of garlic, buttered and well seasoned with salt and pepper.

There was also some steamed spinach and I made a light jus with the pan juices and some water, thickened slightly with a cornflour paste.

To drink with this we had a bottle of 2004 Rully from the Domaine de l’Eclette, a red Burgundy from the northern part of the Côte Chalonnaise AOC region. 2004 was a tricky year in Burgundy and the wines are not as rich and full as the 2003 and 2005 vintages but this was a pleasing wine, good Pinot character and with some acidity to balance the fruit which was just beginning to fade a bit. This was the last of a half dozen bottles which we bought in 2008 and I think that leaving this one any longer would have led it to go over a bit.

I decided to make a pudding too, a crumble.

This was simply some frozen Summer berries mixed with cubed Bramley apple and some cinnamon and demerara sugar and with a crumble topping of butter, sugar, flour, chopped walnuts and porridge oats for extra texture. We had this with some thick cream and a small glass of Premières Côtes de Bordeaux from the Sainsburys Taste The Difference range, a pleasant, honeyed white dessert wine with some nice balancing acidity to prevent it being cloying. There are better Bordeaux sweet wines than this, but this is a reasonably priced half bottle and pretty representative of the style. Recommended.


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